Episode 8: Where to Stay in Lisbon

Planning a trip to Lisbon and wondering where to stay? In this episode, Paul and Tori take you on a tour of Lisbon’s beautiful neighborhoods, talking about what makes each one unique and what travelers should expect if they stay there.

Avenida da Liberdade: Lisbon 101

What’s it Like: “Gateway” to Lisbon, the Avenida (Avenue) da Liberdade is the central artery of the city. A wide avenue with lots of trees, beautiful sidewalks, cafes and high-end shops, it is a perfect place to make your base if you are new to Lisbon
Where to Stay: Lots of hotels (tend to be upscale) along the avenue. Numerous hostels and apartments in the side streets
How to Get There: Three subway stops along the Avenida; Bus hub, Rossio train station at the southern base (Restauradores)
Why We Love it: A peaceful and beautiful area in the midst of a bustling city. Take a side street and you are in a wonderful Portuguese neighborhood; Gradual incline as you move to its northern point (statue of the Marques do Pombal – learn more about him by listening to this episode)
Don’t Miss:
- Praça da Alegria: Tiny and sweet little residential park off the Avenida
- Hot Clube: Right in the Praça da Alegria, one of Lisbon’s best jazz clubs

Príncipe Real: A Prince of a Neighborhood

What’s it Like: Trendy, hipster (in a good way!), lots of cool bars. There is one busy, main street (Rua Dom Pedro V), but otherwise quiet
Where to Stay: Not many hotels. You’ll most likely be looking for an apartment
How to Get There: Not on a subway line, but Tram 24, which originates in Praça da Camoes, goes through it
Why We Love it: Up-and-coming neighborhood that has three of our favorite bars: Foxtrot, CINCO and Gin Lovers. Learn more about them here
Don’t Miss:
- Jardim do Príncipe Real: Beautiful park with a wonderful cypress tree
- Solar Antiques: Antique shop that sells really beautiful (and very old!) Portuguese tiles (azulejos)
  
  Note: The market for azulejos has turned a bit unsavory. People are destroying the facades of beautiful buildings to take tiles home with them or to sell them at pop-up markets. If you are going to buy an azulejo, do your homework and purchase from a place that has sourced them legitimately.

Bairro Alto: Young and Ready to Party

What’s it Like: Right next to Príncipe Real. Very busy and lively at night, quiet during the day. A draw for a young and international crowd. Lots of bars and restaurant
Where to Stay: Mostly made up of hostels
How to Get There: Tram 24; Gloria funicular up from Restauradores at foot of Avenida
Why We Love It: Fun place to people watch at night. Great to explore during the day. There’s lots of interesting street art to enjoy
Don’t Miss:
- Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara: Beautiful scenic overlook. Sometimes there are pop-up markets and musicians playing
- São Roque: Incredibly beautiful church. Learn more here

Chiado: Fashionable and Artsy

What’s it Like: Downhill from the Bairro Alto, fashionable shopping, gourmet restaurants; not very residential. The Praça de Camões tends to be a meeting place for lots of tour groups
Where to Stay: Boutique hotels and apartments
How to Get There: Subway, Tram 28
Why We Love it: Rich in cultural history, lively, a fun place to shop and people watch
Don’t Miss:
- Café Brasileira: This is where Portugal’s literati and intelligentsia would come together. Be sure to take a photo with Fernando Pessoa’s statue right outside
- Bertrand: Word’s oldest operating bookstore in world (1732)
- Manteigaria: Bakery with incredible pasteis de nata
- People watching in the Praça de Camões (Camões is Portugal’s “Homer”)
- Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea do Chiado: Contemporary art gallery

Lapa/Estrela/Campo de Ourique: Residential Retreat in the Middle of the City

What’s it Like: Three residential neighborhoods, nice, quiet, well-to-do
Where to Stay: Few hotels, lots of apartments
How to Get There: Bus and trams 28 and 25 (Note – the trams are incredibly packed all the time. You’ll will most likely need to take a taxi or some other alternate transportation)
Why We Love it: Quiet and away from the hustle and bustle of the city
Don’t Miss:
- Campo de Ourique: Imperial de Campo de Ourique (Tasca do João) – amazing food from an amazing family. Learn more here; Mercado (smaller version of a Time Out Market)
- Estrela: Jardim da Estrela (large, beautiful garden with statues and cafes); Basilica da Estrela
- Lapa: Home to the embassies

Baixa: Lisbon’s Business District

What’s it Like: Flat area, built on a grid after the Great Earthquake; Lots of tourists, restaurants and shops; Lisbon’s downtown
Where to Stay: Lots of hotels and hostels
How to Get There: Subways, buses, Rossio train station
Why We Love It: Hustle and bustle; lots of shops
Don’t Miss:
- Praça do Rossio
- Praça do Comércio (very iconic square)
- Rua Augusta (pedestrian-only street)

Alfama: Old Lisbon

What’s it Like: This is true Lisbon. Hilly neighborhood with steep alleyways, staircase streets; epicenter of the Festa da Santo Antonio
Where to Stay: Apartments, some boutique hotels
How to Get There: Subway station at base of Alfama
Why We Love it: Magical, beautiful, full of character and charm, it’s Lisbon in its truest sense. Getting lost in its winding streets brings magic
Don’t Miss: Anything! Enjoy it!

Note: If you are going in June, especially the first two weeks of June, the nights are going to be really loud. Alfama is the center of the Festa da Santo Antonio festivities, and people are celebrating every evening late into the night.

Graça: Up on a Hill and “Out of the Box”

What’s it Like: Residential neighborhood with a lot of street art; two excellent viewpoints; not a lot of tourists stay there
Where to Stay: A few hotels, mostly apartments
How to Get There: Not very accessible but Tram 28 runs through it. Uphill walk
Why We Love It: Artistically fascinating with lots of street art, beautiful views, fun place to walk around and explore
Don’t Miss:
- Universal Personhood, street art mural by Shephard Fairey and Vhils
- Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte
- Miradouro da Graça