In episode two of To Lisbon, with Love, Paul and Tori take you on a tour of their favorite city and show you what to see and do in Lisbon. They share some important tips that will have you traveling Lisbon like a pro, and will even have you riding Lisbon’s most famous tram.

Best Way to Explore Lisbon

Public transportation in Lisbon is safe, easy and pretty reliable. Get a Viva Viagem card at a kiosk in the subway (there is one right at the airport in the subway entrance). Use the “zapping” option to add money to the card. You can then use it on the subway, buses, trains and ferries

What to Do in Lisbon

Visit Belem

• Pro Tip #1: Many tourist guides will tell you to take the tram to Belem (a neighborhood on the outskirts of Lisbon), but don’t do it! It is much faster and more comfortable to take a light rail from Cais do Sodré instead

While in Belem, check out:

• Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos)
• Torre de Belem 
• Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) and the adjacent church which has the tombs of Luís Vaz de Camões, Portugal’s greatest poet, and Vasco da Gama, a Portuguese explorer and the first European to reach India by sea
• National Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches)
• Pasteis de Belem – An important institution that makes one of Portugal’s national treasures: pateis da nata. A pastel da nata is a custard tart that is a must try. 
  
  Pro Tip #2: There will be a massive line outside, which is meant for take out. Skip that line and go inside towards the back. You’ll probably end up in another line (it’s pretty quick, though), but you’ll get seated. Check out the beautiful azulejos (ceramic tiles) on the wall, and peek into the bakery to see their massive operation

Take Tram 28

All the tour books tell you to take Tram 28, and for a good reason: it is awesome. It takes you up and down the hills of Lisbon, through all its wonderful neighborhoods, sometimes coming scaringly close to Lisbon’s old buildings.

• Pro Tip # 3: This is an incredibly crowded tram because it is so deservingly popular. It starts in downtown Lisbon, but we recommend that you take it farther along the route. Instead:

  Take Tram 25 from Praca da Figueira to Jardim da Estrella, and get off to explore this beautiful and utterly charming park. Cross the street and check out the Basilica da Estrella. When you’re done, take Tram 28 back towards the center of town, and enjoy the ride. You’ll end in Praça do Martim Moniz

Castelo de São Jorge

• Praça do Martim Moniz commemorates Martim Moniz, a knight who threw himself in between the gate of the Castelo de São Jorge during the siege of Lisbon in 1147. Walk up from the plaza (praça) to the castle and go in! It’s an incredible fortress with an active archeological dig, camera obscura and peacocks!
• Pro Tip # 4: There is an escalator on the side of the plaza that will take you up halfway to the castle

Alfama

• The Castelo de São Jorge is located in Alfama, an old, beautiful neighborhood in Lisbon that was left intact after the Great Earthquake of 1755
• Explore this wonderful neighborhood, full of narrow streets and steep alleys
• Fado, a typical, soulful style of Portuguese music, is at the heart of Alfama. There are numerous fado bars to explore, and a fado museum, Museu do Fado

Churches

If you see a church, go in! You’ll never know what treasures you’ll find. Some of our favorites:

• Sé (Cathedral of Lisbon): Imposing structure on the outside; very simple and striking on the inside
• Igreja de Santo António: Right next to the cathedral, it marks the birthplace of St. Anthony of Padua
  
  Pro Tip # 5: There’s a bathroom here! St. Anthony hooks you up!
  
• Igreja de São Domingos: Damaged by a fire, you’ll see the columns of the original church in stark juxtaposition to “newly” built walls
• São Roque: Located in the Bairro Alto neighborhood, this church is breathtaking. Be sure to take the tour

Hidden Gems

What are our favorite “hidden gems”?

• Paul: Estufa Fria, a lovely greenhouse off the avenida near the Marques de Pombal statue
• Tori: Carmo Convent and its ruins. It’s right up from the Rossio, in the charming Carmo Square

What is Overrated?

The Santa Justa Lift! Take a look at this outdoor elevator, but don’t waste your time or money on it.

Episode Music

All music on this episode was recorded live at Duque da Rua, a wonderful fado bar just steps from the Rossio.

Musicians: Tiago Fins, Fernando Soares and Júlio Madaleno
Outgoing song: Sung by Vitor Fernandes

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